Tuesday, January 24, 2012

Eau de Cologne Challenge for the Winter of 2012

Sponsored by Coeur d’Esprit Natural Perfumes in Coquitlam, British Columbia, Canada

Beginning on Feb 1, 2012 with an end-date of March 31, 2012

The Prize to be sent out by April 30th.

Parfum Eau de Cologne – a new twist on an olde idea

The original “Eau de Cologne” (as it was dubbed by the French) was created by an Italian man named Gian Paolo Feminis, a barber, who moved to Köln, Germany and then created “Aqua Admirabilis” using Grape Spirits, Neroli, Bergamot, Lavender, and Rosemary. It was released in 1709 and soon became known as Eau de Cologne (Köln).

Over the years, there have been many ingredients used to make this simple citrus/herbal scent: bergamot, lemon, orange, tangerine, lime, grapefruit, neroli, lavender, rosemary, thyme, petitgrain orange, and jasmine.

So we’re going to take a deeper perspective on the idea of “Eau de Cologne”.

Usually, cologne strength is 3-5 %; we are making ours at a strength of 22% and paying attention to fixation, hence one (and only one) animal ingredient is allowable within the fifteen ingredients. Our end product will smell like “Eau de Cologne” but behave like a perfume.

What does that mean? The scent profile for this aromatic is typically bracing, refreshing, and light, with a heart of sparkling citrus. So now, three hundred years later, our composition will reflect this as we honour Gian Paolo Feminis and his idea of light-hearted fragrance that should be available to all.

Guidelines: Please be fair to others and ensure that, when you sign up, you intend to follow through with this project as only the first ten (10) Registrants will be taken then the registering process will be closed.

Anyone who wishes to Register, please do so now and send an email to me with the following information: LynAyre@telus.net

your full name

mailing address

phone number

recent photo

Website URL

permission to post your entry on my Blog

at http://coeurdespritnaturalperfume.blogspot.com/ and Website

at http://www.scentofnature.net/

Please ensure you follow all the 'guidelines'. In the first challenge, people 'lost points' for not including a data tag, using an incorrect amount of ingredients, not sending a photo, and so on.

1. No matter if your perfume is based in alcohol or oil, the end product should be clear and free from imperfections. The way to do this is to refrigerate, filter, and/or use a pipette to suck up all but the floating/sunken bits into another container. If your perfume has had a chance to sit for a month or so, and you have shaken it periodically, the more dense particulates will have diluted themselves into the alcohol or oil. Leave it sit again for a few days then draw off the clear part and put it in your final bottle.

Imagine you are doing all of this for a high-end client and really want to impress him or her. This is very good practice for when this happens for you.

2. For the Eau de Cologne challenge you are allowed 15 ingredients all together, not including the alcohol or oil. This includes 1 (one) animal ingredient, if you like.

3. A Data Tag must be attached ie: name of the perfume, list of the ingredients, name the base, your company information (even if it's simply your name and contact information), the size of the end product ie: 5 ml; precautions, how to use, and the 'best before date'. (See first two challenges for an idea of what a Data Tag looks like).

4. Please follow these directions

Submit the perfume and the following to me by March 31st (You are not disqualified for being late but you do lose some points.)

o send two 1 ml sample vials of perfume for evaluation via the postal mail

o base can be clear alcohol or oil (these do not count as part of the 15)

o If you use a scented tincture or maceration as your base, that will count as an ingredient.

o write 5 sentences that tell the vision behind your new creation and submit via email

o write 5 sentences about who you are in relation to Natural Perfumery and submit via email

o email me the notes in your perfume

o email me your photo

We hope that perfumers from all over the world will participate in this challenge.

Each perfumer is graded 1-10 on the following categories: how well they followed the above instructions; their vision of the perfume’s creation; a short five-sentence bio; a recent photo; a Data Tag with pertinent information about their perfume; the balance, character, diffusion, tenacity, and structure of their creation.

A Natural Perfume has the following qualities:

o Balance – so that no single component can be detected, unless it is a Soliflore

o Character – The twists and turns of a perfume as it evolves on the skin. What kind of a perfume is this? Is it a raunchy riot? Is it soft and gentle? Where does it take you? What’s at the heart of it? Does it have personality? How do the layers unfold? Who would this perfume appeal to?

o Diffusion – does it surround the wearer with an aura of scent?

o Structure – Is there harmony in the mix? Have the base, heart, and head notes been properly addressed? Are the proportions correct for these ingredients so that there is balance, character, diffusion, and tenacity? Is there cohesion? Does it have dimension?

o Tenacity – staying power is the ability of a perfume to last on the wearer for more than just a couple of hours

The Prize

A beautiful 5 ml Atomizer of “Eau d’Espirt” by Coeur d'Esprit Natural Perfume;

perfect to carry with you.

You can read about this perfume on my ‘Perfume Creations’ page at

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