Thursday, September 3, 2015


Summer Challenge – Ambridge Rose
For the summer of 2015

Sponsored by Coeur d’Esprit Natural Perfumes in Coquitlam, British Columbia, Canada
Beginning on May 24, 2015 with an end-date of August 15, 2015 ie: they have to be in my hot little hands by then. While you’re waiting for your alcohol to mature, go ahead and create your formula.
The Prize to be sent out by the end of Aug 2015. A 5 ml Atomizer of Ambridge Rose by Coeur d’Esprit Natural Perfumes.
This is a rose soliflore perfume with a specific nature.
I want to give you the chance to try your hand at a specialty alcohols, which are softened and fixed. They add something different that cannot necessarily be achieved with essences in alcohol alone. Your new creation needs to be in this alcohol base.
Floral Alcohol Blend 100 ml
94 ml alcohol
5 ml Spring water
1 tsp Orris Root powder*
and a 1 ml or 20 drop essential oil blend in the floral category, in this case rose.
*Orris Root Powder is the fixative.
Guidelines:
o       There are four natural perfumers signed up for this challenge.
o       Please send the following information to me at  LynAyre@telus.net
your full name
mailing address
phone number
recent photo
website URL
permission to post your entry on my face book pages
permission to add your fragrance entry to the glam-bag give-away
 
Please ensure you follow all the 'guidelines':
1. Create your alcohol, as above, first then allow it to age until July 15th. Shake it up every time you think of it. Leave it in a cool dark place.
2. The ingredients in play are these and only these:
 fir absolute
 vanilla
 patchouli
 clove bud absolute
 lavender absolute
 geranium Rose
 Rose de Mai
 Rosewood
 Bergamot FCF
‘Peach notes’ – this is the wild card and however you do that, as long as it’s natural and not a synthetic note, that’s fine. Perhaps you’ve come up with an essential oil blend that portrays peach; maybe you have a peach melange (from John Steele conference) or peach isolate; apricot has even better peach notes, so maybe you have an apricot essence from John Steele.
 
Here’s an interesting link to White Lotus for more info on the melange.
 
Here’s one about the apricot essence at Perfumers’ Apprentice
 
And, the peach isolate:
 
The number of drops of each essential oil you use and the end strength is up to you.
All four of you will be doing the same thing. But you all bring to it your own experience, intuition, and spiritual guidance. It will be so interesting to smell these creations.
This is a good exercise, which shows us we can let people know about every note in our perfume creations because they will never be able to duplicate it. We don’t need to be coy and mysterious. Heck, they can have the whole formula and it will never be the same as what we do. It helps us loosen up and relax our grip and relax into the process more.
Here are the attributes that should be a part of your scent profile for the finished perfume:
Fruity, jammy, baby powder, baby’s breath, light Rose scent. Seductive, intoxicating, alluring, intimate.
Create the formula in whatever is your way and leave by the alcohol giving it a shake, too. Again, leave until July 15th.
Ensure both are labeled so nobody drinks them.
Add your formula to the alcohol drop by drop until you have the strength you want. You’ll then have two weeks to tweak it before you need to mail it to me. I need it in my hands by Aug 15th.

3. A Data Tag must be attached ie: name of the perfume, list of the ingredients, name the solvent (ie: oil, alcohol), your company information (even if it's simply your name and contact information), the size of the end product ie: 5 ml; precautions, how to use, and the 'best before date'. (See photo for an idea of what a Data Tag looks like). Affix a label to the vial.

4. Please follow these directions

Submit the perfume and the following to me by 15Aug15. Please send it out in time to reach me by that date. Send it earlier, if you like, and it can sit here to mature.

o       send two 1 ml sample vials of perfume for evaluation via the postal mail

o       sign off for the Glam Bag Giveaway

o       write 5 sentences that tell the vision behind your new creation and submit via email

o       write 5 sentences about who you are in relation to Natural Perfumery and submit via email

o       email me the complete list of the notes in your creation

o       email me your photo
 
Each perfumer is graded 1-10 on the following categories: how well they followed the above instructions; a short five-sentence about his or her vision of the perfume’s creation; a short five-sentence bio; a recent photo; two Data Tags with pertinent information about their perfume; the balance, character, diffusion, tenacity, and structure of their creation.

A Natural Perfume has the following qualities:

o       Balance – so that no single component can be detected, unless it is a Soliflore.

o       Character – The twists and turns of a perfume as it evolves on the skin. What kind of a perfume is this? Is it a raunchy riot? Is it soft and gentle? Where does it take you? What’s at the heart of it? Does it have personality? How do the layers unfold? Who would this perfume appeal to?

o       Diffusion – does it surround the wearer with an aura of scent?

o       Structure – Is there harmony in the mix? Have the base, heart, and head notes been properly addressed? Are the proportions correct for these ingredients so that there is balance, character, diffusion, and tenacity? Does it have dimension?

o       Tenacity – staying power is the ability of a perfume to last on the wearer for more than just a couple of hours
 

Have fun!
 
 
The Challengers
~ Amanda Feeley, Aimes, IA, USA~
www.esscentualalchemy.com
 
Vision: As I pondered the notes given for this challenge, along with the picture of the rose itself, I started thinking about the book, Secret Garden.  I loved reading it as a girl, and often wished I had my own secret garden to dream and play in.  I decided to focus on the concept of finding the Ambridge Rose in a hidden glade of a forest.  The sweet juiciness, and light floral mingling in with the scents of warm earth, and lush forest on a summer morning.  My hope is that this secret discovery will bring you joy and delight!
Notes: “Ambridge Rose” - Fir Absolute, Vanilla, Patchouli, Clove Bud Absolute, Lavender Absolute, Geranium Rose, Rose de Mai, Rosewood, Bergamot, Peach notes, in a Orris/Rose infused into 190 proof cane alcohol.
Bio: ‘Esscentual Alchemy’ is the brainchild of owner Amanda Feeley, a classically trained musician who is driven to create handcrafted all natural perfumes that are compelling, luxurious and memory-making. After majoring in music during college, she discovered that her love and knowledge of music translated into another language, the language of scent.  Composition of music and perfume are created using many of the same terms and concepts.  Amanda often uses great works of art, music, and literature as inspiration for her perfume creations.  The rest, as they say, is scented history.
Review: Amanda’s rendition of Ambridge Rose opens with a refrain of a fruity melange, pitched high and light. The notes weave in and out and will catch you by surprize. Just as you think it’s over, a new bar begins. It was just a short rest before singing the final song of peach pie with rose petals. A sublime siren of scent.
Jane Cate, Menlo Park, CA, USA
 
Vision: I was lounging on my porch, a cold glass of lemonade in hand, my legs thrown over the wicker chair, contemplating, well really nothing at all.  My shitzus, Bailee and Zelda, sleeping on their mat and enjoying the sunshine.  A bee began buzzing near the lily of the valley flowers, then finding nothing to his liking flew off.  A little hummingbird began taking nectar from the honeysuckle and then the rose, birds chirping, music from the radio softly playing what sounded like music from the Big Band era drifting in and all at once the Henry James quote made sense. A summer afternoon are two of the most beautiful words in the English language – and the inspiration behind the perfume - soft, sensuous roses, drifting in and out like a lovely refrain of a love ballad from long ago.
Notes: “Summer Afternoon” - Fir Absolute, Vanilla, Patchouli, Clove Bud Absolute, Lavender Absolute, Geranium Rose, Rose de Mai, Rosewood, Bergamot, Peach Isolate, in a Floral Alcohol Blend.
Bio: A Wing & A Prayer Perfumes is dedicated to the art of creating natural fragrances using only pure organic materials. The motto for AWAAPP is “define yourself naturally by wearing A Wing & A Prayer Perfumes”, and I believe in this and all of my perfumes stay true to this credo! Wearing a fragrance is a means of self-expression and I wanted to convey this in each fragrance I create, including the SUMMER AFTERNOON Perfume.  Even though I have been blending natural perfumes for 15 years, I am still discovering new natural ingredients and new methods in the creation of new fragrances.  Learning is an essential in the art of perfumery.
Review: A ‘Summer Afternoon’ with Jane Cate could be as peachy as her perfume. It is rosy, shiny, bright, and airy. The fruitiness is front and centre and speaks its mind fully. The dry-down is powdery, lightly rosy, and slightly spicy. It wears well and dances in and out of my reality all day long and well into the evening. Jane’s perfume is totally reminiscent of the rose in our garden.
 
Justine Crane, CA, USA
 
Vision: I’ve had experience with those varieties of rose that smell more of peaches and cream than ‘rose’, so I was excited to see this challenge come about. I tried to adhere to the attributes of ‘fruity, jammy, baby powder, baby’s breath, light rose; seductive, intoxicating, alluring, and intimate’, and I think I came very close. The trial evaluations proved that the fir balsam absolute is heavily present even in the smallest amounts, so that was a bit of a challenge getting the right ratio without the formula turning terpenic, but still maintaining the ‘jammy’ presence ( the apricot essence helped with that aspect as well). Throughout the process I was envisioning those beautiful peachy roses I experienced once at a plant nursery in Clovis, CA. I remember the scent distinctly because I was wandering the nursery with a friend who has since passed, and that ‘peach rose’ reminds me of him.
Notes: “Ambridge Rose” - Rose geranium, Clove absolute, Lavender absolute, Fir balsam absolute, Patchouli, Vanilla, Apricot essence, Bois de rose, Bergamot fcf , and Rose de mai, in a floral alcohol base.
Bio: My name is Justine Crane and I’ve been creating natural perfumes for over a decade. I teach natural perfume courses online as well as in person. I’ve written a book or two on the subjects of natural perfumer and other olfactory arts. I used to edit and author a lot of the articles and stories for the now defunct online magazine ‘Le Parfumeur Rebelle’. I’m looking forward to continuing to grow in this art and present beautiful pieces of olfactory art until my dying day.
Review: I’m in a Farmer’s Market and saying to myself, ‘what is that divine aroma?’ It’s fresh, fruity, and forthright. I look around me and find I’m surrounded by roses, apricots, peaches, and evergreen trees. These aromas dance around me until I’m twirling, dancing, and laughing, inhaling deeply. I love what Justine’s perfume does for me emotionally – very healing and uplifting – just what I needed.
Shauna Rudd, St. Albert, AB, Canada
 
Vision: It’s 1967, the Summer of Love, and “flower power” has bloomed in the village of Ambridge. This is a fictional English village, of course, where the BBC soap opera, The Archers, is set, but the Ambridge Rose named after this town – a poufy, powdery, fruity rose – is quite real. Ambridge, 1967 is a light, fresh Eau de Toilette soliflore that celebrates the Ambridge Rose at a time when love, and patchouli, prevailed. It’s best when spritzed in a misty veil, like a shimmering aura that envelopes you, bringing visions of a glowing hippie-chick sashaying among the rose bushes.
Notes: ‘Ambridge 1967’ - Clove absolute, Fir absolute, Rose geranium, Lavender absolute, Patchouli absolute, Vanilla absolute, Rose de mai, Rosewood, natural peach compound, and Bergamot fcf in a floral alcohol.
Bio: I have been fascinated by little glass bottles filled with coloured liquids (containing magic potions, obviously), for as long as I can remember – creating perfumes is a natural extension, and, just you wait, one day I will create a magic potion. Since the days of “Fresh ’n’ Fancy” – and welcome to the forties club (if you remember that toy) I have been mixing my own balms, body oils and bath salts with glee. My latest perfume, Ambridge, 1967, blended for this year’s Perfume Challenge, had me dreaming of patchouli (I guess that’s what I get for wearing my mods to bed). I dreamed that I was dipping a spoon into vanilla custard smothered in a dark rich caramel sauce flavoured with a hint of patchouli. Now, I’m off to make a caramel sauce…
Review: Shauna’s EDT is calming, familiar, and homey. I found I relaxed into it as my breathing became deeper. I felt as though I was in the centre of a rose garden with a peach pie sitting on a nearby window ledge. Thoughts of my mom comforted me and I felt safe and at peace. This is a very intoxicating scent that can transform the mind.
The samples
 

The Prize

A beautiful 5 ml atomizer of Coeur d'Esprit Natural Perfume "Ambridge Rose", surrounded by an elegant gold sleeve, suitable for wearing anytime;
and perfect to carry with you.
 
Ambridge RoseNotes include: Fir absolute, Patchouli, Vanilla absolute, Clove absolute, Rose geranium, Lavender absolute, Peach melange, Apricot melange, Rose de mai, Rosewood, and fresh Bergamot fcf from Calibia, in a floral alcohol blend.
 
For years I’ve been sniffing and mentally extracting the notes from our own Ambridge Rose, which is growing among seven other scented rose bushes in our front yard. Many accords have come and gone as they were never quite right. This year, I feel I did very well in capturing the essence of our gorgeous big puffy lightly pink somewhat peach coloured roses. Hence the challenge. Mine is fruity, powdery, lightly rosy, with defined peach notes. Friends have said it’s exotic, sexy, and intoxicating. I really love it. The colour is forest green.

Glam Bag Giveaway

There are two Glam Bags giveaways waiting for the first and second person who comments on the blog post and includes the words: ‘I would like to join in the Glam Bag offer’. Contact me privately though my face book page and I’ll connect back to you for your mailing address. There are two organza bags of the five lovely 1 ml perfume samples I’ve reviewed in this post. Let your friends know to to read and make their comments, too.There are two Glam Bags giveaways waiting for the first and second person who comments on the blog post and includes the words: ‘I would like to join in the Glam Bag offer’. Contact me privately though my face book page and I’ll connect back to you for your mailing address. There are two organza bags of the five lovely 1 ml perfume samples I’ve reviewed in this post. Let your friends know to to read and make their comments, too.There are two Glam Bags giveaways waiting for the first and second person who comments on the blog post and includes the words: ‘I would like to join in the Glam Bag offer’. Contact me privately though my face book page and I’ll connect back to you for your mailing address. There are two organza bags of the five lovely 1 ml perfume samples I’ve reviewed in this post. Let your friends know to to read and make their comments, too.There are two Glam Bags giveaways waiting for the first and second person who comments on the blog post and includes the words: ‘I would like to join in the Glam Bag offer’. Contact me privately though my face book page and I’ll connect back to you for your mailing address. There are two organza bags of the five lovely 1 ml perfume samples I’ve reviewed in this post. Let your friends know to to read and make their comments, too.There are two ‘Glam Bag Giveaways’ to be won by a lucky commenter on this challenge. Please include the words, ‘I would like to join the ‘Glam Bag Giveaway’ in your comment along with anything else you’d like to say about the challenge. Let your friends know to read and make their comments, too.
Participants in the challenge are not included in this giveaway.
Contact me privately though my face book page and I’ll connect back to you for your mailing address. There are two organza bags of the five lovely 1 ml perfume samples I’ve reviewed in this post. Let your friends know to to read and make their comments, too.The winners can contact me privately through my face book page and we’ll connect so I can get your mailing addresses. The gift consists of a gold organza pouch with the four 1 ml perfumes I’ve reviewed so you can experience all of the entries, as I did.

The Results Are In

The Grand Prize Winner is

 

Jane Cate

from California, USA for the Ambridge Rose scent called “Summer Afternoon”.

 

The Seal

 
 
Thanks so much to Amanda, Justine, and Shauna for joining in the fun. Your perfumes are all wonderful and you should feel very proud of your work and your resulting new scents. I appreciated each of your designs and it was a pleasure to play with you all again.
 
Love Lyn
 

Thursday, October 9, 2014

The long-awaited Level Two Natural Perfume Course is ready at last...

"Pyramid of Natural Olfactory Pleasures"

 

  The ‘Art of Perfumery’ may be older than the pyramids, but there
are always new things to be discovered.

This course expands on the perfuming concepts presented in the Coeur d'Esprit Natural Perfume Course “A Journey to the Heart of Spirit” I'm currently teaching through correspondence. Before considering this course, you should have a good grasp of the basics of perfume creation or you'll become quite lost in this course as it assumes you know what you're doing. Here are the topics you need to know: how to formulate, create accords, infusions, and tinctures; note classification; perfumery terms; methods of extraction; shelf-life and storage; scent profiling; working in a safe atelier; where to purchase supplies; and so on...


We will create five new perfumes in the following families, using my unique 'keys' for creating a great – chypre, citrus, fougere, floral, and oriental perfume. Then we'll compose accords that will offer us deviations featuring fruity, herbal, leathery, leafy, and gourmand/spicy.


There are multiple perfumes and accords to make up and many (over 20) projects to complete and email back to me.


A Table of Contents is available upon request. lynayre@telus.net


A Certificate of Proficiency will be awarded upon completion. There is no exam.


…other topics and experiments include:
o Creating various kinds of alcohol blends for specific Perfume Families.
o Create your own Perfumers Wheel
o Advanced sniffing techniques and evaluations
o Creating your own Natural Perfume Pyramid
o Creating a perfume kit for traveling
o How to do a Perfume Consultation
o Developing a Reference Library of the Classics
o Comparing essences from one supplier to the next
o I offer accord ideas from my own personal work to create – amber, fresh, super green, hyacinth, and musk.
o Working with a gram scale, ultra-sonic unit, heat stand, monclon, strip stand
o Comparing and scent-profiling various essences: Petitgrain, Oakmoss, Lotus, Pepper, Lavender, Geranium, Jasmine, Rose, Sandalwood, and Vetiver
o Section on fixatives


Advanced Natural Perfume correspondence course $375.00. Please email me your intention to take this course and I'll email you a Registration Form and a PayPal Invoice to pay. Then I'll send out the course and you can begin. lynayre@telus.net

Purchase both levels and enjoy a price break. Only $750.00 for both.

Thursday, October 2, 2014

And the Winner Is...



2014 Lusty Floral ~ Musky Finish

Perfume Challenge

for the Summer of 2014
                                   
Sponsored by Coeur d’Esprit Natural Perfumes in Coquitlam, British Columbia, Canada


Beginning on June 1, 2014 with an end-date of Aug 31, 2014 ie: they have to be in my hot little hands by then. While you’re waiting for your tinctures to mature, go ahead and create your formula.
The Prize to be sent out by the end of Sep 2014 – a Gold Atomizer of Coeur d’Esprit Natural Perfume “Kapalua”.
In the summer I think of the thick scent of garden flowers – rose, jasmine, narcissus, carnation, honeysuckle, and broom; and warm musky bodies tending the garden. It’s a heady combination and that’s where we’re going with this challenge. The title reads: “Lusty Floral ~ Musky Finish”.
Today, natural perfumers have an array of ingredients that will give a musky tone to a perfume without using real musk and endangering a species or using a manmade musk. Think – Ambrette seed, agarwood, nutmeg, tobacco, jasmine auriculatum, billy goat hair and hyraceum. Perhaps your nose has detected other eo’s that have a musky note.
 
Natural Isolates are allowed in this perfume, as are tinctures.
Again, there are many ways for Natural Perfumers to go with this theme. And, as always, there are some guidelines to follow:
Guidelines:
  • Please be fair to others and ensure that, when you sign up, you intend to follow through with this project as only the first ten (10) Registrants will be taken then the registration process will be closed.
Anyone who wishes to Register, please do so now and send an email to me with the following information: LynAyre@telus.net
your full name
mailing address
phone number
recent photo
website URL
permission to post your entry on my
permission to add your fragrance entry to the glam-bag give-away
 
Please ensure you follow all the 'guidelines'. In the first challenge, people 'lost points' for not including a data tag, using an incorrect amount of ingredients, not sending a photo, and so on.
 
1. No matter if your perfume is based in alcohol or oil, the end product should be clear and free from imperfections. The way to do this is to refrigerate, filter, and/or use a pipette to suck up all but the floating/sunken bits into another container. If your perfume has had a chance to sit for a month or so, and you have shaken it periodically, the more dense particulates will have diluted themselves into the alcohol or oil. Leave it sit again for a few days then draw off the clear part and put it in your final bottle.
Imagine you are doing all of this for a high-end client and really want to impress him or her. This is very good practice for when this happens for you.
Note: your scent needs to have the ‘floral’ category addressed in all phases of the drydown. The musk needs to be present in the drydown.
 
If you live a considerable distance away, please get your entry to me sooner rather than later. It can do its aging here for a time. I don’t sniff them until the challenge is closed.
2. For the Lusty Floral ~ Musky Finish, you are allowed to use up to 22 ingredients. These must be naturally derived: essential oils, absolutes, concretes, waxes, hydrosols/flower waters, enfleurage, tinctures, and oil. Since it is illegal in Canada to sell a perfume with potable alcohol, one may choose to use ethanol with Bitrex for the solvent (I’ve done a pile of research on this and found it to be, by all accounts, non-toxic though extremely bitter so there’s little chance a child would drink your perfume). If you use animal ingredients, you must know and attest to me that they are ethically obtained.
3. A Data Tag must be attached ie: name of the perfume, list of the ingredients, name the solvent (ie: oil, alcohol), your company information (even if it's simply your name and contact information), the size of the end product ie: 5 ml; precautions, how to use, and the 'best before date'. (See photo for an idea of what a Data Tag looks like).
4. Please follow these directions
Submit the perfume and the following to me by August 31, 2014. Please send it out in time to reach me by that date. Send it earlier, if you like, as I’ve mentioned, it can sit here to mature.
  • send two 1 ml sample vials of perfume for evaluation via the postal mail
  • let me know if you are up for the Glam Bag Giveaway (see previous page)
  • base can be clear alcohol or oil (these do not count as part of the 22)
  • If you use a scented tincture or maceration as your base or use some drops of it as part of your formula that will count as an ingredient.
  • write 5 sentences that tell me the vision behind your new creation and submit via email
  • write 5 sentences about who you are in relation to Natural Perfumery and submit via email
  • email me the complete list of the notes in your perfume
  • email me your photo
 
Each perfumer is graded 1-10 on the following categories: how well they followed the above instructions; a short five-sentence about his or her vision of the perfume’s creation; a short five-sentence bio; a recent photo; a Data Tag with pertinent information about their perfume; the balance, character, diffusion, tenacity, and structure of their creation.
 
A Natural Perfume has the following qualities:
  • Balance – so that no single component can be detected, unless it is a Soliflore. This challenge is not for a Soliflore
  • Character – The twists and turns of a perfume as it evolves on the skin. What kind of a perfume is this? Is it a raunchy riot? Is it soft and gentle? Where does it take you? What’s at the heart of it? Does it have personality? How do the layers unfold? Who would this perfume appeal to?
  • Diffusion – does it surround the wearer with an aura of scent?
  • Structure – Is there harmony in the mix? Have the base, heart, and head notes been properly addressed? Are the proportions correct for these ingredients so that there is balance, character, diffusion, and tenacity? Does it have dimension?
  • Tenacity – staying power is the ability of a perfume to last on the wearer for more than just a couple of hours
We hope that perfumers from all over the world will accept and
participate in this challenge.

I was privileged to spend a whole day with each perfume, as always. I learn so much from every perfumer about envisioning, development, and risk-taking. I feel these challenges help us all to grow. There are two glam bags available for two lucky comment makers. Please let us know what you think.
 The perfumers are listed in the order of receipt of their entry.
 Here are my thoughts and feelings about the submissions.

The challengers


Renée Starr
Los Angeles, California, USA

Bio: A mirrored tray on my mother's dresser, with hundreds of miniature perfume bottles, is the culprit for my love affair with scent. Spending hours to smell each and every one of those bottles, I soon learned to equate perfume with what being feminine is: magical, sacred, sensual; and learned that the ceremony of anointing the body with perfume is an alchemical experience. 
Vision: ODALISQUE is the scent of the Hareem where women perfumed their bodies with luxurious oils, ate from golden platters piled with lush fruits and honeyed sweets, breathed in the smoke of resinous, woody incense, the hookah and night blooming flowers, all mingled in with the spice and musk of passion. My aim was to capture the aromatic rituals of sensuality.
Notes: beeswax absolute, rosewood, agarwood, fossilized amber absolute, sandalwood, tobacco blond, patchouli absolute, wild rose, rose absolute morocco, rose absolute Egypt, coffee flower, ambrette seed, safflower, jasmine sambac, jasmine grandiflorum, tuberose, petitgrain, neroli/Egypt, frangipani, lime. In a meadow foam seed oil base. 
Review: This perfume is a floral extravaganza. If you like bubble baths, you’ll love this. Odalisque scents the skin for a long time. It diffuses into the air and can odorize and good sized room. Renee envisioned a Hareem and it is my belief this is what one may smell like.
Suzy Larsen
Suzy Larsen Perfumes, Kelowna, BC, Canada
 
Bio: Suzy's a farm girl from Southern Alberta at heart.  The scent of livestock from the barnyards, diesel fuel from the tractors, and dust and hay from the fields imprinted some fantastic olfactory memories on her that led to her curiosity and wonder about all things aroma.  As a welcome juxtaposition to farm and ranch smells, her mother spoiled her every Christmas with high end perfumes like Paloma Picassa, L'Interdit, Chanel No. 22, and Rive Gauche among others.  Years later after becoming interested in natural healing, Suzy attended Mount Royal College to become an Aromatherapist and while there learned about the amazing healing properties of essential oils.  Quickly she found a desire to use these natural essences to create perfumes for family and friends.
Vision: The inspiration for my entry comes from my husband’s upper lip after he’s been outside gardening in the hot sun for the afternoon.  This is my favourite time to kiss him as the subtly sweet, earthy and sexy sweatiness has gathered above his lip.  The name of this perfume is inspired by the Roman Goddess Pamona who watches over and cares for the cultivation of fruit trees, gardens and orchards.  And what better name than Pamona’s Garden to represent our lovely new home in the Okanagan of British Columbia with its soil and sun primed for growth. And maybe a little bit of that Italian Amore from Pamona herself is being sprinkled on my husband’s lip every time he’s in our garden.
Notes: Bergamot, Carrot, Ginger, Galbanum, Nigella damascena, Osmanthus, Honey, Jasmine sambac, Ylang ylang, Tuberose, Costus Root, Choya Loban, Hyrax, Cumin, and Ambrette Seed in Organic alcohol.
Review: The opening refrain of Pamona is an accord of floral/galbanum – very sexy and earthy. Soon the smokiness takes over and sustains its note for a very long time. This perfume is grounding and meditative. It makes you stand still and notice. Suzy has stayed true to her vision of the long kiss. This perfume is very tenacious.

Shauna Rudd

St. Albert, AB, Canada


Bio: I discovered the concept of natural perfume about five years ago, and was immediately and completely enthralled. I follow the online forums and have taken a few courses, but this is my first attempt at making a “real” perfume on my own from concept to creation. My biggest lesson learned in this challenge was realizing just how much I don’t know about making perfume – it’s important to understand how essences interact, and finessing these subtleties takes time. It can make a person crazy, and it’s so easy to get lost in them, but in my opinion, this is what makes a perfume sing. This one might be a little off-key, but you know what they say: sing like no one is listening.

Vision: Sundara means “beautiful” in Hindi, and this beautiful summer day begins with a bright spark of cardamom, black pepper and coriander. As the day lingers on, suave rose, Indian jasmine, and spicy golden champaca release their honeyed aromas. When the sun begins to set, and the flowers fall into shadow, we’re left with a floral afterglow joined by vanilla, orris and ambrette, radiating the sweet subtle musk of sun-kissed skin.

Notes: Black Pepper EO, Cardamom EO, Coriander seed EO, Bergamot (FCF) EO, Neroli EO, Golden Champaca C02, Turkish Rose Abs, Boronia Abs, Orange Blossom Abs, Jasmine Sambac Abs, Guiacwood EO, Nutmeg Abs, Vanilla Bourbon C02, Ambrette Seed C02, Orris Butter, Vetiverol (natural isolate), Rosewood EO, Benzyl Benzoate (natural isolate)

Review: I could sniff this perfume all day long; I just want to bury my face in it. The spicy opening surprised me and then I got into it. The florals are expertly blended into a wonderful bouquet. Diffusion is perfect as throughout the day, I’ve wondered ‘where is that lovely scent coming from?’ then I remember and sniff my wrist yet again. After several hours, it morphs into a muskiness that I’ve not smelled before and appreciate so very much. Shauna, your “Sundara” stayed true to my vision and I thank you for sharing.

Sophia-Suzette Shuttleworth
Gordon’s Bay, Western Cape, South Africa

Bio: The first time I was stung by a bee was when I was busy brewing a perfume from the local vegetation at six years old. I took it as a sign that the bee liked my perfume. Ever since then I have been exploring the scents of nature. Through my research into ancient anointing oils and early perfumes and aromatics, I discovered the art of natural perfumes.  After many years of self-study I started to market my perfumes and founded African Aromatics. Africa is the environment in which I live and breathe in, and continues to be my source of inspiration. All my perfumes contain African elements in them and reflects my experience of my environment.
Vision: “White Frangipani” served as my inspiration with its elegant fresh sensuality, sleek white silk with no frills. The perfume was woven around a core of white frangipani enfleurage borne by the heat of an African summer. Its natural silky sensual scent is accentuated by Neroli, and Jasmine supported by light musky base.

Notes: Sugar Cane Alcohol, African Ambergris, Hyraceum, Hawaiian sandalwood, Tonka bean abs, Vanilla abs, Cedar Atlas, White Frangipani enfleurage, White Frangipani absolute, Rose maroc, Dianthus concrete, Anisaldehyde, Methyl anthranilate, Jasmine sambac, Orange Bigarde, Neroli, Lemon, Ambrette seed, Angelica

Review: Sophia’s ‘White Frangipani’ perfume opens with a bright hit of citrus. It soon settles into a melody of florals with the main voice being Frangipani. The creamy notes begin to come out to play. Finally, the musk shows up for a short time; then the florals then take over and hum for hours. A lovely perfume that stayed close to my vision.


Iris Moore


El Cerrito, California, USA


Bio: After a year and a half of investigating natural scent materials, I am even more in love with the materials and possibilities of this craft.  My approach is formed by a background in sculpture and performance.  Narrative, spatial and material concerns are my main interests.  In addition to scents, I make ceramic Monclins and “Polyclins” (experimental smelling devices).  And am close to launching a website!


Vision: Film Noir “Lusty and Musky Walked Into a Bar…” It’s sweltering in LA, so Veronica Lake and Charles Bukowski stand under a streetlight in front of an unmarked door. The muted sounds of a jazz band filter out onto the sidewalk.  She shakily applies lipstick, while he smokes.  Wordlessly he opens the door for her and --- blasts out.  The door slams behind them and again the noise from the bar is muted.


Notes: Street smell (automotive), citrus, white floral, booze, sweat, sex - Jasmine absolute, ylang ylang extra, tuberose absolute, orange blossom absolute, white grapefruit, green cognac, Marker’s Mark, lavender absolute, frankincense, African stone, ambrette seed, amyris, orris butter, costus root, styrax, tonka bean absolute, sandalwood powder tincture, goat tincture, white oak tincture.


Review: I can truly appreciate the uniqueness of the ingredients used in “Beautiful Matter”. What really comes through for me is the leather note ie: bikers’ bar. Iris has stayed true to her vision. The opening notes are floral and fruity; there’s almost an interesting licorice note in there that pops in and out and surprises me from time to time. This perfume lasts a long time on the skin.

Lyn Ayre, your host

The Prize A beautiful 5 ml atomizer of Coeur d'Esprit Natural Perfume "Kapalua", surrounded by an elegant gold sleeve and suitable for wearing in the Spring and Summer;
perfect to carry with you in your purse. This fragrance is completely wearable in the sun through the use of the 5-fold citrus notes.


Kapaluanotes: Ambergris, Ambrette seed CO2, Ocean tincture, Seaweed absolute, Orris Root butter CO2, Tolu balsam, Tonka bean, Vanilla 10-fold, Frangipani absolute, Ginger, Kewda attar, Maile vine, Neroli, Lemon 5-fold, Lime 5-fold, and Litsea cubeba. In a base of: Pineapple tincture and Perfumers’ Alcohol.




The Results Are In
The Grand Prize Winner is


Shauna Rudd


from St. Albert, Alberta, Canada for a truly lovely floral named “Sundara”.


Thank you so much to Canadian Natural Perfumer, Suzy Larsen, and South African Natural Perfumer Sophia Shuttleworth, and US Natural Perfumers Renee Starr and Iris Moore for making this a very interesting perfume challenge.
I
 appreciated each one of your designs. It was an interesting and in-depth journey into what makes this perfume type live up to its name: lusty florals on the one hand, and musky notes on the other. You used a variety of perfume materials, which conspired together to create the whole sexy scent.