Showing posts with label Patchouli. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Patchouli. Show all posts

Friday, August 19, 2011

Summer of Patchouli Love finale

Grammy-Award Winning Vocalist Patti Austin picked my
Patchouli Paisley Perfume
as her #1 choice in the
Summer of Patchouli Love Challenge.
Patti took the 13 perfume vials on the road with her and wore each one for a few days.
In the end, though she loved them all, she chose mine as her first pick. (#8 Patchouli Paisley)
Her other picks were Bodhi Sativa by DSH perfume and Wild Child by Opus Oils.
Thank you, Patti. I'm so happy you enjoyed it.
This challenge has been one of best experiences of my life. The sense of community that has sprung up amongst the perfume bloggers, natural perfumers, perfume poets, perfumistas, perfume magazine editors, and all who made comments on each of the Interviews, Stories, Poetry, hurts, and successes, has been quite heartening.
We have run the gamut of emotions here. There was nail-biting tension; wonderful elation; honourable mention; and much instigation. 
Monica Miller of the Perfume Pharmer http://perfumepharmer.com/organic-perfume-skincare-remedies/index.php/summer-of-patchouli-love-2011-perfume-pharmer-and-the-patch-test-bunnies-2/  has done a great service for each of us who played a part in the unfoldment of this summertime drama. I love and appreciate her un-ending support, mentoring, sharing, and great poems. 
Meant to be a simple challenge to make a 15% eau de parfum with 25% patchouli in the base, with a few ribs and kinds words floating about from the perfume bloggers, it turned into a huge triumph for the winners, eye-opener for some, and friend-fest for all.
Would I do it again? YES! In a heartbeat.
Onward and Upward.
Right in the middle of all of this, I turned 60, which was a very huge deal for me.
Love Lyn

Sunday, July 3, 2011

“Summer of Patchouli Love” – For The Record

The Challenge: We were to create an EDP of only 15% strength, in an alcohol base, with at least 25% Patchouli and submit it to Monica Miller of the PerfumePharmer by June the 1st. Monica then decanted into small numbered bottles and sent off samples to several Perfume Bloggers and Celebrities. None of the perfumers knew which number they were. None of the Reveiwers knew either. It was a double-blind contest – nail-biting, sit on the edge of your seat type of thing. “Are they commenting on my creation?” “Gosh, I hope that isn’t my perfume they’re talking about.” Back and forth; very exciting. Here’s what happened with me:

Until this challenge, I had no idea just how much of a 60’s gal I am. I began to notice things around the house… a Peace Poster over our bed – it’s always just been there; all of my night attire – two pair of pj’s with the Peace sign on the front as well as a caftan, which is purple and paisley! Sigh… Am I becoming my Mother, as I turn 60. She was a peace-lovin’ gal, too. With her blond Afro, ‘flower child’ clothes, granny glasses, and peaceful nature, she had it all going on. I think it’s in-bred.





When I was a teen-ager, I loved tie-dying, and batiking. Creating my own clothes, such as scarves, tops, slacks, and shifts, as well as book jackets, wall posters, and head bands, was no different from other work I’ve done in the Arts. I began by blocking or sectioning off various areas of the cloth with ties or wax then I sunk the cloth into a big vat of dye laying down the first layer of colour. I used string to tie off areas or I applied wax and did it again, modifying what I’d already done. I always left tiny areas where I could add sparkling pale yellow highlights to give the illusion of brilliant light.


I have sung all my life – 18 of it years professionally, some of it ‘on the road’. Writing songs with a bass line, melody, harmony, and chorus, creating the whole thing through inspiration, then orchestrating it, is truly an honour and an amazing process to me. At the end of it, I sometimes found myself wondering how I came up with it in the first place because the end result was so natural, like it had always been in this world. Nothing was contrived; everything flowed.

Everything I’ve learned and done has gone towards working and experimenting with plant essences to make Natural Perfumes. First, I must be inspired by something; then I must daydream about it. I sit and make notes as things come to me – combinations, accents, fixatives – all floating around me. I pick and choose then go to my Atelier and begin the trials. I use scent strips to get an idea of what the combinations or accords smell like. I may make up a dilution of the base, heart, or head chord and wear it for a while, seeing how it smells on my skin.

The point of the last three paragraphs is to detail that, no matter what the genre is, I have to ‘get my hands dirty’ and do it myself from scratch. Years ago, my husband and I decided to have only original art on the walls and on the shelves; we’ve honoured that ideal and our home is an expression of who we are, as artists. Nowadays, I create my own bath and beauty products, herbal remedies, and so on… you get the picture.

Loving and creating Natural Perfumes is an true extension of Flower Power, of working with colour, and of working with sound, isn’t it? To lay down the bass line with Patchouli, Musk Accord, Vetiver, and Oakmoss then modify that with a melody of Jasmine, Neroli, and Orange Blossom, finally highlighting with Sweet Orange, Petitgrain orange, and Black Pepper, and various other accords, is like painting a symphony of aromas that dance and sing across the stage of our nasal palette. I really love and enjoy creating natural perfumes.


The perfumes back in the 60’s were basically Patchouli and Musk so that is where I began my journey this time. These were sold at the Incense and Bead stores in the downtown area of New Westminster. Walking into one of those dark and scary places, with half-naked men and clouds of smoke, was very rattling to a person of my young years. It made my head spin. However, I needed some beads to put on the clothes I was creating so I took a deep breath and walked quickly, not speaking rather gathering my supplies and making a hasty get-away.

Natural Perfumes of today are quite different. There are now hundreds of essences to choose from and this number increases daily as more of us move into doing our own tinctures and macerations.

I’d originally thought to go with a powdery accord in the heart by using Lavender absolute, Geranium absolute, and Tonka Bean. My first ‘round of trials’ were too powdery and soft; no Patchouli Punch; and no way they would cover up anything, if you get my drift. LOL I called these three “Patchouli Peace” 1, 2, and 3.

Okay, back to the drawing board, so to speak. I created an accord between Jasmine grandiflorum, Rose absolute, and Ylang Ylang extra. The second trials were sweet, bright, and rosey. This was far too cheery for the task at hand. Where’s the Patch? I could smell the Jasmine and knew that I was thinking in the right direction. These test runs were called “Patchouli Posey” 1, 2, and 3. All of these six are perfectly lovely perfumes, just not the one I was looking for at the time.


I was getting closer but not quite there. I created a white flower accord with elements high in indole such as Jasmine, Neroli, and Orange Flower. I combined this with a tiny amount of my musk accord, which is called “Essential Musk Fixative”. I felt the indole components of these chosen florals, combined with the Musk accord, really brought to mind those times, back in the 60’s – a sexy, raunchy riot; Bohemian nights, and bloodshot days. There were five trials using these combinations. Then, I felt I had a lovely floral bouquet that lasted a long time (9 hours on my skin, which is normal), smelled like Patchouli was in there, reminded me a bit of the 60’s (in a nice way), represented the florals of the flower children, and met all the criteria of the challenge.


Given all the paisley I had in the house, and all the products I’d made with patchouli (my deodorant and shower powder for example). It was only natural, then to call this final creation “Patchouli Paisley”. There are 24 ingredients (15 of which are in my musk accord) in my perfume entry. I hope you enjoy it. It is now for sale on my website at http://www.scentofnature.net/  


“The Summer of Patchouli Love” Challenge has been a wonderful adventure for me as I’ve sorted out all the details, applied myself to the discipline of ‘perfume creation from a brief’, begun relationships with people I’d not encountered before and strengthened the ones I’d already started. What a joy and a privilege it has been to be a part of this wonderful venture set about by Monica Miller and Friends. I am grateful to you all.
Some lovely comments have been made about my creation and I appreciate all of the kind words. My "Patchouli Paisley", which was created for this challenge and was entry #8, was chosen as a top three for Marina Geigert, Davika Weston of Weston's Gallery, and Nava Brahe of the Perfume Possee, with a favourable mention from Lucy Raubertas of Indie Perfumes. Virginia Carmichael from Marth's Vineyard chose my perfume as her #1. Many thanks to all who enjoyed and commented on Patchouli Paisley perfume.
In closing this post, I would like to Congratulate all the Winners of this Challenge: Kedra Hart, Rodney Hughes, and Dawn Spencer Hurwitz. I was in talented company with the following challengers: Dupetit, Liz Zorn, Shelley Waddington, Jane Cate, Tanya Bochnig, Ambrosia Jones, JoAnne Bassett, Dawn Spencer Hurwitz, Amanda Feeley, Kedra Hart, and Rodney Hughes.

Pop over to Monica Miller's site for more breaking news: http://perfumepharmer.com/organic-perfume-skincare-remedies



Batik drying in the Sun; photo credit http://www.google.ca/imgres?imgurl=https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsKmsbQvciKeBX9BJBrKS_DdaLovnLkShOD2T6ivTS9VJWMRASjbpYMV3VOzsNL-PZMUSNfNCfwcNly6FsSs-EqNTRR4RqtUxbkhM_XYoOvn2jhMm7HWMz9ZjYV7rfB0OEs2lw_clbcLKF/s1600/LION%252BBATIK%252Bdrying%252Bin%252Bthe%252Bsun2.jpg&imgrefurl=http://batikartist.blogspot.com/2011/06/lion-batik-big-challenge.html&usg=__nC9yNVi4fcKCcKzHp1_yLGTcgwU=&h=675&w=900&sz=313&hl=en&start=219&zoom=1&tbnid=sGkXzqWY09XQ6M:&tbnh=138&tbnw=209&ei=7n4QTuWwJO7_sQLE4_WiCg&prev=/search%3Fq%3Dbatiking%26um%3D1%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DN%26rlz%3D1T4ACAW_en___CA418%26biw%3D1024%26bih%3D457%26tbm%3Disch&um=1&itbs=1&iact=hc&vpx=703&vpy=109&dur=2536&hovh=194&hovw=259&tx=153&ty=167&page=25&ndsp=8&ved=1t:429,r:3,s:219&biw=1024&bih=457
Orange blossoms; photo credithttp://www.netstate.com/states/symb/flowers/images/orange_blossoms.jpg
Jasmine flowers; photo credithttp://flowersnamess.com/2011/06/11/jasmine-flower/
Smoky incense store; photo credithttp://autumnearthsong.files.wordpress.com/2010/10/pa170511.jpg

Wednesday, May 4, 2011

Memories of...

The Summer of Love 1967

It was July 8, 1967, my 16th Birthday. Times were simpler, then, and less was definitely more: less deodorant, more BO, less dating and more sex, less fighting and more peace, less sobriety and more booze, less school and more skipping out to the park to hang out with friends.

Canada’s 100th Birthday was the day before on July 7th (also my sister’s 15th Birthday) so we, as a country, were celebrating our Centennial.

 
Punch Buggies were all the rage. These uncomfortable squishy Beetles soon became the centre of a game in which we stuffed as many smelly teenagers as we could into the belly of the beast – arms and legs sticking out of the windows and faces smooshed up against the windows.

The mini skirt and hot pants were in vogue. This is when ‘quack skirts’ came into being; I won’t say any more lest young people be reading this post.


Round-rimmed granny glasses and granny dresses with their plain lines and paisley patterns were at the other end of the scale.

Placards, with psychedelic scrawl, bearing the words “Free Love”, “Peace, Brothers & Sisters”, and my all-time favourite, “Make Love Not War” were plastered all over the news and TV media.

The music was great that summer… ‘We’re happy together’ was ‘our song’ as was ‘Brown-eyed Girl’. Of course my boy-friend changed that to ‘green-eyed girl’ just for me. No wonder I loved him so much…

‘If you’re going to San Francisco…’. I really wanted to go; it sounded free and romantic. Still haven’t been there.

Memories of the acrid smell of maryjane, unwashed bodies, and cheap Patchouli Oil has lingered for years in the minds of many.

The Summer of Patchouli Love 2011
 
And now another beautiful summer coming, loving the warmth, the smells, the sounds, the sights, and turning sixty; being fully matured and participating in a challenge such as this; doing what I love and am passionate about – Natural Perfumery.

I found Patchouli again, years ago, when I took my first Aromatherapy course. I loved it. It is an amazing aroma of deep complexity with notes of green leaves, depths of the forest floor, over-ripe fruit, and robust floral scents.

Patchouli is steam-distilled from the leaves and can come from Sri Lanka, Indonesia, Sumatra and Java. The colour of the essential oil is tan to brown. It has a strong, earthy, smoky, spicy, leathery, and musky scent with a persistent and tenacious odour. The viscosity is medium, the Odour Intensity is 5/10, and the Evaporation Rate is 100 (along with Sandalwood). Patchouli is a base note and in some cases, you can still detect the scent for months to come.  

Therapeutically, it’s indicated for nervous exhaustion and stress. It’s great for skin issues such as dandruff, eczema, fungal infections, wounds, aging skin, and wrinkles. It is from the ‘woody’ or, as I put it, ‘woodsy’ Aroma Group. Found as a base note in many Chypre and Oriental formulae, it can be use in many other formulae where you want a strong, earthy base note.

Spiritually, the key words are, “Heal the Past” as it stimulates vigor, reasonableness, and farsightedness. This beautiful essential oil helps us connect to Mother Earth Gaia and heal past issues. Patchouli ages beautifully and anyone who uses it in their skin-care routine will, as well.

© 2011 Lyn E. Ayre, Ph.D.