Summer Challenge – Ambridge Rose
For the summer of 2015
Sponsored by Coeur d’Esprit Natural Perfumes in Coquitlam, British Columbia, Canada
Beginning on May 24, 2015 with an end-date of August 15, 2015 ie: they have to be in my hot little hands by then. While you’re waiting for your alcohol to mature, go ahead and create your formula.
The Prize to be sent out by the end of Aug 2015. A 5 ml Atomizer of Ambridge Rose by Coeur d’Esprit Natural Perfumes.
This is a rose soliflore perfume with a specific nature.
I want to give you the chance to try your hand at a specialty alcohols, which are softened and fixed. They add something different that cannot necessarily be achieved with essences in alcohol alone. Your new creation needs to be in this alcohol base.
Floral Alcohol Blend 100 ml
94 ml alcohol
5 ml Spring water
1 tsp Orris Root powder*
and a 1 ml or 20 drop essential oil blend in the floral category, in this case rose.
*Orris Root Powder is the fixative.
o There are four natural perfumers signed up for this challenge.
o Please send the following information to me at LynAyre@telus.net
your full name
your full name
permission to post your entry on my face book pages
permission to post your entry on my face book pages
website at http://www.scentofnature.net/
permission to add your fragrance entry to the glam-bag give-away
Please ensure you follow all the 'guidelines':
1. Create your alcohol, as above, first then allow it to age until July 15th. Shake it up every time you think of it. Leave it in a cool dark place.
2. The ingredients in play are these and only these:
clove bud absolute
Rose de Mai
‘Peach notes’ – this is the wild card and however you do that, as long as it’s natural and not a synthetic note, that’s fine. Perhaps you’ve come up with an essential oil blend that portrays peach; maybe you have a peach melange (from John Steele conference) or peach isolate; apricot has even better peach notes, so maybe you have an apricot essence from John Steele.
Here’s an interesting link to White Lotus for more info on the melange.
Here’s one about the apricot essence at Perfumers’ Apprentice
And, the peach isolate:
The number of drops of each essential oil you use and the end strength is up to you.
All four of you will be doing the same thing. But you all bring to it your own experience, intuition, and spiritual guidance. It will be so interesting to smell these creations.
This is a good exercise, which shows us we can let people know about every note in our perfume creations because they will never be able to duplicate it. We don’t need to be coy and mysterious. Heck, they can have the whole formula and it will never be the same as what we do. It helps us loosen up and relax our grip and relax into the process more.
Here are the attributes that should be a part of your scent profile for the finished perfume:
Fruity, jammy, baby powder, baby’s breath, light Rose scent. Seductive, intoxicating, alluring, intimate.
Create the formula in whatever is your way and leave by the alcohol giving it a shake, too. Again, leave until July 15th.
Ensure both are labeled so nobody drinks them.Add your formula to the alcohol drop by drop until you have the strength you want. You’ll then have two weeks to tweak it before you need to mail it to me. I need it in my hands by Aug 15th.
3. A Data Tag must be attached ie: name of the perfume, list of the ingredients, name the solvent (ie: oil, alcohol), your company information (even if it's simply your name and contact information), the size of the end product ie: 5 ml; precautions, how to use, and the 'best before date'. (See photo for an idea of what a Data Tag looks like). Affix a label to the vial.
4. Please follow these directions
Submit the perfume and the following to me by 15Aug15. Please send it out in time to reach me by that date. Send it earlier, if you like, and it can sit here to mature.
o send two 1 ml sample vials of perfume for evaluation via the postal mail
o sign off for the Glam Bag Giveaway
o write 5 sentences that tell the vision behind your new creation and submit via email
o write 5 sentences about who you are in relation to Natural Perfumery and submit via email
o email me the complete list of the notes in your creation
o email me your photo
Each perfumer is graded 1-10 on the following categories: how well they followed the above instructions; a short five-sentence about his or her vision of the perfume’s creation; a short five-sentence bio; a recent photo; two Data Tags with pertinent information about their perfume; the balance, character, diffusion, tenacity, and structure of their creation.
A Natural Perfume has the following qualities:
o Balance – so that no single component can be detected, unless it is a Soliflore.
o Character – The twists and turns of a perfume as it evolves on the skin. What kind of a perfume is this? Is it a raunchy riot? Is it soft and gentle? Where does it take you? What’s at the heart of it? Does it have personality? How do the layers unfold? Who would this perfume appeal to?
o Diffusion – does it surround the wearer with an aura of scent?
o Structure – Is there harmony in the mix? Have the base, heart, and head notes been properly addressed? Are the proportions correct for these ingredients so that there is balance, character, diffusion, and tenacity? Does it have dimension?
o Tenacity – staying power is the ability of a perfume to last on the wearer for more than just a couple of hours
~ Amanda Feeley, Aimes, IA, USA~
Vision: As I pondered the notes given for this challenge, along with the picture of the rose itself, I started thinking about the book, Secret Garden. I loved reading it as a girl, and often wished I had my own secret garden to dream and play in. I decided to focus on the concept of finding the Ambridge Rose in a hidden glade of a forest. The sweet juiciness, and light floral mingling in with the scents of warm earth, and lush forest on a summer morning. My hope is that this secret discovery will bring you joy and delight!
Notes: “Ambridge Rose” - Fir Absolute, Vanilla, Patchouli, Clove Bud Absolute, Lavender Absolute, Geranium Rose, Rose de Mai, Rosewood, Bergamot, Peach notes, in a Orris/Rose infused into 190 proof cane alcohol.
Bio: ‘Esscentual Alchemy’ is the brainchild of owner Amanda Feeley, a classically trained musician who is driven to create handcrafted all natural perfumes that are compelling, luxurious and memory-making. After majoring in music during college, she discovered that her love and knowledge of music translated into another language, the language of scent. Composition of music and perfume are created using many of the same terms and concepts. Amanda often uses great works of art, music, and literature as inspiration for her perfume creations. The rest, as they say, is scented history.
Review: Amanda’s rendition of Ambridge Rose opens with a refrain of a fruity melange, pitched high and light. The notes weave in and out and will catch you by surprize. Just as you think it’s over, a new bar begins. It was just a short rest before singing the final song of peach pie with rose petals. A sublime siren of scent.
Jane Cate, Menlo Park, CA, USA
Vision: I was lounging on my porch, a cold glass of lemonade in hand, my legs thrown over the wicker chair, contemplating, well really nothing at all. My shitzus, Bailee and Zelda, sleeping on their mat and enjoying the sunshine. A bee began buzzing near the lily of the valley flowers, then finding nothing to his liking flew off. A little hummingbird began taking nectar from the honeysuckle and then the rose, birds chirping, music from the radio softly playing what sounded like music from the Big Band era drifting in and all at once the Henry James quote made sense. A summer afternoon are two of the most beautiful words in the English language – and the inspiration behind the perfume - soft, sensuous roses, drifting in and out like a lovely refrain of a love ballad from long ago.
Notes: “Summer Afternoon” - Fir Absolute, Vanilla, Patchouli, Clove Bud Absolute, Lavender Absolute, Geranium Rose, Rose de Mai, Rosewood, Bergamot, Peach Isolate, in a Floral Alcohol Blend.
Bio: A Wing & A Prayer Perfumes is dedicated to the art of creating natural fragrances using only pure organic materials. The motto for AWAAPP is “define yourself naturally by wearing A Wing & A Prayer Perfumes”, and I believe in this and all of my perfumes stay true to this credo! Wearing a fragrance is a means of self-expression and I wanted to convey this in each fragrance I create, including the SUMMER AFTERNOON Perfume. Even though I have been blending natural perfumes for 15 years, I am still discovering new natural ingredients and new methods in the creation of new fragrances. Learning is an essential in the art of perfumery.
Review: A ‘Summer Afternoon’ with Jane Cate could be as peachy as her perfume. It is rosy, shiny, bright, and airy. The fruitiness is front and centre and speaks its mind fully. The dry-down is powdery, lightly rosy, and slightly spicy. It wears well and dances in and out of my reality all day long and well into the evening. Jane’s perfume is totally reminiscent of the rose in our garden.
Justine Crane, CA, USA
Vision: I’ve had experience with those varieties of rose that smell more of peaches and cream than ‘rose’, so I was excited to see this challenge come about. I tried to adhere to the attributes of ‘fruity, jammy, baby powder, baby’s breath, light rose; seductive, intoxicating, alluring, and intimate’, and I think I came very close. The trial evaluations proved that the fir balsam absolute is heavily present even in the smallest amounts, so that was a bit of a challenge getting the right ratio without the formula turning terpenic, but still maintaining the ‘jammy’ presence ( the apricot essence helped with that aspect as well). Throughout the process I was envisioning those beautiful peachy roses I experienced once at a plant nursery in Clovis, CA. I remember the scent distinctly because I was wandering the nursery with a friend who has since passed, and that ‘peach rose’ reminds me of him.
Notes: “Ambridge Rose” - Rose geranium, Clove absolute, Lavender absolute, Fir balsam absolute, Patchouli, Vanilla, Apricot essence, Bois de rose, Bergamot fcf , and Rose de mai, in a floral alcohol base.
Bio: My name is Justine Crane and I’ve been creating natural perfumes for over a decade. I teach natural perfume courses online as well as in person. I’ve written a book or two on the subjects of natural perfumer and other olfactory arts. I used to edit and author a lot of the articles and stories for the now defunct online magazine ‘Le Parfumeur Rebelle’. I’m looking forward to continuing to grow in this art and present beautiful pieces of olfactory art until my dying day.
Review: I’m in a Farmer’s Market and saying to myself, ‘what is that divine aroma?’ It’s fresh, fruity, and forthright. I look around me and find I’m surrounded by roses, apricots, peaches, and evergreen trees. These aromas dance around me until I’m twirling, dancing, and laughing, inhaling deeply. I love what Justine’s perfume does for me emotionally – very healing and uplifting – just what I needed.
Shauna Rudd, St. Albert, AB, Canada
Vision: It’s 1967, the Summer of Love, and “flower power” has bloomed in the village of Ambridge. This is a fictional English village, of course, where the BBC soap opera, The Archers, is set, but the Ambridge Rose named after this town – a poufy, powdery, fruity rose – is quite real. Ambridge, 1967 is a light, fresh Eau de Toilette soliflore that celebrates the Ambridge Rose at a time when love, and patchouli, prevailed. It’s best when spritzed in a misty veil, like a shimmering aura that envelopes you, bringing visions of a glowing hippie-chick sashaying among the rose bushes.
Notes: ‘Ambridge 1967’ - Clove absolute, Fir absolute, Rose geranium, Lavender absolute, Patchouli absolute, Vanilla absolute, Rose de mai, Rosewood, natural peach compound, and Bergamot fcf in a floral alcohol.
Bio: I have been fascinated by little glass bottles filled with coloured liquids (containing magic potions, obviously), for as long as I can remember – creating perfumes is a natural extension, and, just you wait, one day I will create a magic potion. Since the days of “Fresh ’n’ Fancy” – and welcome to the forties club (if you remember that toy) I have been mixing my own balms, body oils and bath salts with glee. My latest perfume, Ambridge, 1967, blended for this year’s Perfume Challenge, had me dreaming of patchouli (I guess that’s what I get for wearing my mods to bed). I dreamed that I was dipping a spoon into vanilla custard smothered in a dark rich caramel sauce flavoured with a hint of patchouli. Now, I’m off to make a caramel sauce…
Review: Shauna’s EDT is calming, familiar, and homey. I found I relaxed into it as my breathing became deeper. I felt as though I was in the centre of a rose garden with a peach pie sitting on a nearby window ledge. Thoughts of my mom comforted me and I felt safe and at peace. This is a very intoxicating scent that can transform the mind.
A beautiful 5 ml atomizer of Coeur d'Esprit Natural Perfume "Ambridge Rose", surrounded by an elegant gold sleeve, suitable for wearing anytime;
and perfect to carry with you.
“Ambridge Rose” Notes include: Fir absolute, Patchouli, Vanilla absolute, Clove absolute, Rose geranium, Lavender absolute, Peach melange, Apricot melange, Rose de mai, Rosewood, and fresh Bergamot fcf from Calibia, in a floral alcohol blend.
For years I’ve been sniffing and mentally extracting the notes from our own Ambridge Rose, which is growing among seven other scented rose bushes in our front yard. Many accords have come and gone as they were never quite right. This year, I feel I did very well in capturing the essence of our gorgeous big puffy lightly pink somewhat peach coloured roses. Hence the challenge. Mine is fruity, powdery, lightly rosy, with defined peach notes. Friends have said it’s exotic, sexy, and intoxicating. I really love it. The colour is forest green.
Glam Bag Giveaway
There are two Glam Bags giveaways waiting for the first and second person who comments on the blog post and includes the words: ‘I would like to join in the Glam Bag offer’. Contact me privately though my face book page and I’ll connect back to you for your mailing address. There are two organza bags of the five lovely 1 ml perfume samples I’ve reviewed in this post. Let your friends know to to read and make their comments, too.There are two Glam Bags giveaways waiting for the first and second person who comments on the blog post and includes the words: ‘I would like to join in the Glam Bag offer’. Contact me privately though my face book page and I’ll connect back to you for your mailing address. There are two organza bags of the five lovely 1 ml perfume samples I’ve reviewed in this post. Let your friends know to to read and make their comments, too.There are two Glam Bags giveaways waiting for the first and second person who comments on the blog post and includes the words: ‘I would like to join in the Glam Bag offer’. Contact me privately though my face book page and I’ll connect back to you for your mailing address. There are two organza bags of the five lovely 1 ml perfume samples I’ve reviewed in this post. Let your friends know to to read and make their comments, too.There are two Glam Bags giveaways waiting for the first and second person who comments on the blog post and includes the words: ‘I would like to join in the Glam Bag offer’. Contact me privately though my face book page and I’ll connect back to you for your mailing address. There are two organza bags of the five lovely 1 ml perfume samples I’ve reviewed in this post. Let your friends know to to read and make their comments, too.There are two ‘Glam Bag Giveaways’ to be won by a lucky commenter on this challenge. Please include the words, ‘I would like to join the ‘Glam Bag Giveaway’ in your comment along with anything else you’d like to say about the challenge. Let your friends know to read and make their comments, too.
Participants in the challenge are not included in this giveaway.
Contact me privately though my face book page and I’ll connect back to you for your mailing address. There are two organza bags of the five lovely 1 ml perfume samples I’ve reviewed in this post. Let your friends know to to read and make their comments, too.The winners can contact me privately through my face book page and we’ll connect so I can get your mailing addresses. The gift consists of a gold organza pouch with the four 1 ml perfumes I’ve reviewed so you can experience all of the entries, as I did.
The Results Are In
The Grand Prize Winner is
from California, USA for the Ambridge Rose scent called “Summer Afternoon”.
Thanks so much to Amanda, Justine, and Shauna for joining in the fun. Your perfumes are all wonderful and you should feel very proud of your work and your resulting new scents. I appreciated each of your designs and it was a pleasure to play with you all again.