Monday, October 29, 2018

Summer 2018 Natural Perfume Challenge


Summer Challenge –

“Baking in the Kitchen”

For the summer of 2018
The final Natural Perfume Challenge


Lemoncello Cake by Lyn

 
Sponsored by Coeur d’Esprit Natural Perfumes in Coquitlam, British Columbia, Canada

Beginning on June 1, 2018 with an end-date of Sep 30, 2018 ie: they have to be in my hot little hands by then.

The Prize to be sent out by the end of Oct 2018 (barring unforeseen circumstances) – an Atomizer of Coeur d’Esprit Natural Perfume.

What I’m asking for this year is a fun sweet confection; a light and frothy bakery product. It could be spicy, fruity, caramel-y, amber-y, but it needs to smell edible. It brings to mind the plum notes of Osmanthus, the fruity/jammy jazz of jasmine, or a spicy cinnamon/ginger/nutmeg nuance. There are so many ways to go with this scent, as always. It’s a blend that your love-partner will go crazy for. Type ‘cakes’ into your search engine and get inspired. Of course, I’m aware that Vanilla absolute can be rare these days for some reason. Use the one in your cupboard.
 
I’m allowing these to be included in your finished perfumes: essential oils, absolutes, tinctures, infused flowers in oil, natural isolates, and specialty alcohols. No synthetic components, please.
 
Also remember, this is a ‘challenge scent’ so don’t worry about the IRFA regs unless you plan on selling it.
 
Your new creation can be in an alcohol, oil, or crème base (beeswax and oil).
 
Guidelines:

o       Please send the following information to me at  LynAyre@telus.net
your full name
mailing address
phone number
recent photo

website URL
permission to post your entry on my face book pages



permission to add your fragrance entry to the glam-bag give-away

Attach your Data Tag ie: name of the perfume, list of the ingredients, name the solvent (ie: oil, alcohol), your company information (even if it's simply your name and contact information), the size of the end product ie: 5 ml; precautions, how to use, and the 'best before date'. (See photo for an idea of what a Data Tag looks like). Affix a label to the vial.
 
Please follow these directions

Submit the perfume and the following to me by 30Sep18. Please send it out in time to reach me by that date. Send it earlier, if you like, and it can sit here to mature.

o       send two 1 ml sample vials of perfume for evaluation via the postal mail

o       sign off for the Glam Bag Giveaway

o       write 5 sentences that tell the vision behind your new creation and submit via email

o       write 5 sentences about who you are in relation to Natural Perfumery and submit via email

o       email me the complete list of the notes (you don’t need to provide the number of drops you used) in your creation

o       email me your photo

Each perfumer is graded 1-10 on the following categories: how well they followed the above instructions; whether a short five-sentence about his or her vision of the perfume’s creation was included; whether a short five-sentence bio; a recent photo was included; were two Data Tags with pertinent information about their perfume included; plus: the balance, character, diffusion, tenacity, and structure of their creation.

A Natural Perfume has the following qualities:

o       Balance – so that no single component can be detected, unless it is a Soliflore.

o       Character – The twists and turns of a perfume as it evolves on the skin. What kind of a perfume is this? Is it a raunchy riot? Is it soft and gentle? Where does it take you? What’s at the heart of it? Does it have personality? How do the layers unfold? Who would this perfume appeal to?

o       Diffusion – does it surround the wearer with an aura of scent?

o       Structure – Is there harmony in the mix? Have the base, heart, and head notes been properly addressed? Are the proportions correct for these ingredients so that there is balance, character, diffusion, and tenacity? Does it have dimension?

o       Tenacity – staying power is the ability of a perfume to last on the wearer for more than just a couple of hours

 
Have fun!
 
The Results are in
The Challengers
~ Mary Ellen Dorey Cassman, Plano, Texas~
www.doreyaromatherapy.com
Vision: “Sassy” When I saw the parameters for this challenge, I immediately thought of chocolate, caramel, and coffee.  Then I thought of citrus and mints, and after experimentation, Sassy was created.  This fragrance feels playful and nuanced to me.  It is bright and fresh and then unfolds into a rich blend sweetness and warmth.  It is a charming fragrance perfect for sunny days and warm, breezy nights!
Notes: Organic perfumer's alcohol, black current buds, cocoa absolute, coffee CO2, davana, grapefruit, pink, mint absolute, peppermint, bitter orange, blood orange, sweet orange and vanilla.
Bio: I started taking your class in 2012 and have been experimenting with perfumery since that time.  While perfumery is not a large part of my business, I do have some loyal customers and enjoy my blends and continue to ask me to create for them.  I have also been asked to make custom perfumes for clients which I really enjoy that process.  I wear my perfumes and try to steal away time to play at my perfume organ creating my own elusive signature scent.  Natural Perfumery is a part of my life!
Review:  “Sassy” begins with a gorgeous citrus bouquet. It’s so yummy, I wanted it to last forever. But, the nature of head notes is that they are taken up by the atmosphere quite quickly. This perfume dries down to a lovely caramel-y scent and I wanted to keep sniffing my wrist for a few hours.
 
~Shauna Rudd, St. Albert, Alberta~
 
Vision: “Something Wicked” I've been wanting to create this perfume for two years, ever since the night I dreamt about making a devilishly delicious patchouli-laced caramel sauce. I started with a 12-year-old barrel-aged patchouli for its rich and mellow profile. To this, I whipped up an amber base for the foundation, and accented the perfume with a dusting of cardamom and a sprinkling of rosewater. But really, it's all about the sweet, sweet patchouli.
Notes: Aged Patchouli, Amber, Rose, Cardamom, and other natural ingredients.
Bio:  I've been studying natural perfumery for about 8 years. However, I really only started making perfumes for real just within the last couple of years. A big motivator to get my nose out of books and into the lab has been Lyn's perfume challenges, of which I've taken part in four. I now have a small gothic perfume brand with three perfumes ('Something Wicked' is the fourth). I have a website and vend at the occasional market -- a milestone I never thought I'd reach -- and I'm still astonished when strangers buy my perfume. 
Review: I would love to guzzle a whole bottle of this wonderfully chewy, edible, natural perfume. It would make a great flavour for a cake. It is the perfect blend of head, heart, and base notes. This aroma makes my heart sing and my nose continue to find its way to my wrist.
 
~Helene Martz, Atlantic Highlands, New Jersey ~
 
Vision:  Oshun” was created as a homage to the Orisha Oshun. I Based it upon traditional offerings such as Honey, Sweets, etc. Since Honey & Bees are significant to Oshun I wanted to create layers of it by incorporating Propolis tincture, Beeswax & Honey, florals with a honey note. Of course there had to be sweets, Chocolate being a favorite. My hope is to create a series of fragrance dedicated to Goddess Energies.
Notes:  Vanilla Absolute, Vanilla Bourbon O2, Sandalwood / New Caledonia Propolis Resin Tincture, Vanilla Tincture, Cocoa Abs, Patchouli light Beeswax, Orange Blossom, Champaca, Honey, Neroli, Cinnamon, Mimosa, Sweet Orange. Blended with a Vanilla Bean/ Vanilla Powder Alcohol
Bio:  As a former chef, my nose was always in the pot!  If it smelled good, I knew it was ready to be enjoyed.  I feel the same about fragrance, preferring to work with natural ingredients to create something for others to enjoy.  As a full time Psychic Medium, I depend on my intuition to create but I'm always looking to learn more.
Review:  This is a lovely edible perfume; very well constructed and blended. The combination of notes is very smart. The overall feeling of it is peaceful and gentle. It has a full-on vanilla dry down.

 
The Samples
The Prize
A beautiful bottle of Coeur d'Esprit Natural Perfume "Chez Noir", in a beautiful purple roll-on housed in a handmade paper suitcase made by my friend Robin Leonard. This scent is suitable for evening wear; and the bottle is perfect to carry with you.
 
Chez Noir If you love the smell of liquorice then this is the perfume for you. Rich, deep Anise, Tarragon, and Cardamom lead the way into a full floral heart of Rose, Jasmine, and Ylang Ylang, drying down to the warm, sensuous tones of ambergris, patchouli, fresh-mown hay, and labdanum. Not for the faint of heart. Floral/Anise 2007
 
Glam Bag Giveaway
There are two Glam Bags giveaways waiting for the first and second person who comments on the blog post and includes the words: ‘I would like to join in the Glam Bag offer’. Contact me privately though my face book page and I’ll connect back to you for your mailing address. There are two organza bags of the five lovely 1 ml perfume samples I’ve reviewed in this post. Let your friends know to to read and make their comments, too.There are two Glam Bags giveaways waiting for the first and second person who comments on the blog post and includes the words: ‘I would like to join in the Glam Bag offer’. Contact me privately though my face book page and I’ll connect back to you for your mailing address. There are two organza bags of the five lovely 1 ml perfume samples I’ve reviewed in this post. Let your friends know to to read and make their comments, too.There are two Glam Bags giveaways waiting for the first and second person who comments on the blog post and includes the words: ‘I would like to join in the Glam Bag offer’. Contact me privately though my face book page and I’ll connect back to you for your mailing address. There are two organza bags of the five lovely 1 ml perfume samples I’ve reviewed in this post. Let your friends know to to read and make their comments, too.There are two Glam Bags giveaways waiting for the first and second person who comments on the blog post and includes the words: ‘I would like to join in the Glam Bag offer’. Contact me privately though my face book page and I’ll connect back to you for your mailing address. There are two organza bags of the five lovely 1 ml perfume samples I’ve reviewed in this post. Let your friends know to to read and make their comments, too.There are two ‘Glam Bag Giveaways’ to be won by a lucky commenter on this challenge. Please include the words, ‘I would like to join the ‘Glam Bag Giveaway’ in your comment along with anything else you’d like to say about the challenge. Let your friends know to read my face book post and make their comments there, too.
 
Participants in the challenge are not included in this giveaway.
 
Contact me privately though my face book page and I’ll connect back to you for your mailing address. There are two organza bags of the five lovely 1 ml perfume samples I’ve reviewed in this post. Let your friends know to to read and make their commeThe winners can contact me privately through my face book page and we’ll connect so I can get your mailing addresses. The gift consists of a decorative pouch with the three 1 ml perfumes I’ve reviewed so you can experience all of the entries, as I did.
The Results Are In
The Grand Prize Winner is
Shauna Rudd
from St Albert, Alberta, Canada, for her entry called “Something Wicked”.
If my kitchen were infused with this aroma, and it wafted throughout my house, lingering for a day or two, I would be so happy. That would mean someone DID do some baking in the kitchen, and I have CAKE to eat. YAY! This perfume was so well done, Shauna.
The Seal

 
Thanks so much to Mary Ellen Dorey Cassman and Helene Martz for joining in the fun. Your perfumes are all wonderful and you should feel very proud of your work and your resulting new scents. I appreciated each of your designs and it was a pleasure to play with you all again.
Please know that, before I do anything else, I do the sniff test and make my notes. I dab some on me and on a scent strip and sniff every half hour until it is gone. Then I write the evaluation. Finally, I compile this file with your vision, notes, bio, and my review.
This is the final natural perfume challenge I’ll be running as my life is going in another direction now. I’m focusing on my art and placing it in galleries; and on getting my books published and the podcasts recorded and listed on my Podbean site under Made Whole. This title comes from my book, “Fragments of a Shattered Soul Made Whole”. It will be a full time job promoting and marketing my book for the foreseeable future.
It has been an honor to serve the perfume community in this way for all of these years. I feel blessed.
 Love Lyn 
 

Winner of the 2018
Baking in the Kitchen Perfume Challenge
Shauna Rudd
for “Something Wicked”
with my thanks and congratulations, Shauna.
Your Perfume design captured the edible, alluring, and intimate scent I wanted, and you excelled in all named categories.
Dated: 29Oct2018
Signed: Lyn E. Ayre, Natural Perfumer
Coeur d’Esprit Natural Perfumes
 



 
 

Friday, September 1, 2017


For the summer of 2017
 
Roses, Jasmine, and Lavender
 
Sponsored by Coeur d’Esprit Natural Perfumes in Coquitlam, British Columbia, Canada

Beginning on June 1, 2017 with an end-date of August 31, 2017 ie: they have to be in my hot little hands by then.

The Prize to be sent out by the end of Sep 2017 (barring unforeseen circumstances) – an Atomizer of Coeur d’Esprit Natural Perfume.

This is a light summer floral with a green undertone and brings to mind fragrant grasses and an array of flower petals from rose, lavender, jasmine, butterfly bush (vanilla/patchouli scent), and Japanese Maple (leafy scent). I have eight scented rose bushes, two types of lavender, and star jasmine growing in my front yard and, throughout the summer, it’s a perfume that enchants whenever I get in or out of my car.

Also remember, this is a ‘challenge scent’ so don’t worry about the IRFA regs unless you plan on selling it.

Your new creation can be in an alcohol, oil, or crème base (beeswax and oil).

Guidelines:

o       Please send the following information to me at  LynAyre@telus.net
your full name
mailing address
phone number
recent photo

website URL
permission to post your entry on my face book pages



permission to add your fragrance entry to the glam-bag give-away

Please attach a Data Tag ie: name of the perfume, list of the ingredients, name the solvent (ie: oil, alcohol), your company information (even if it's simply your name and contact information), the size of the end product ie: 5 ml; precautions, how to use, and the 'best before date'. (See photo for an idea of what a Data Tag looks like). Affix a label to the vial.

Please follow these directions

Submit the perfume and the following to me by 31Aug17. Please send it out in time to reach me by that date. Send it earlier, if you like, and it can sit here to mature.

o       send two 1 ml sample vials of perfume for evaluation via the postal mail

o       sign off for the Glam Bag Giveaway

o       write 5 sentences that tell the vision behind your new creation and submit via email

o       write 5 sentences about who you are in relation to Natural Perfumery and submit via email

o       email me the complete list of the notes (you don’t need to provide the number of drops you used) in your creation

o       email me your photo


Each perfumer is graded 1-10 on the following categories: how well they followed the above instructions; whether a short five-sentence about his or her vision of the perfume’s creation was included; whether a short five-sentence bio; a recent photo was included; were two Data Tags with pertinent information about their perfume included; plus: the balance, character, diffusion, tenacity, and structure of their creation.

A Natural Perfume has the following qualities:

o       Balance – so that no single component can be detected, unless it is a Soliflore.

o       Character – The twists and turns of a perfume as it evolves on the skin. What kind of a perfume is this? Is it a raunchy riot? Is it soft and gentle? Where does it take you? What’s at the heart of it? Does it have personality? How do the layers unfold? Who would this perfume appeal to?

o       Diffusion – does it surround the wearer with an aura of scent?

o       Structure – Is there harmony in the mix? Have the base, heart, and head notes been properly addressed? Are the proportions correct for these ingredients so that there is balance, character, diffusion, and tenacity? Does it have dimension?

o       Tenacity – staying power is the ability of a perfume to last on the wearer for more than just a couple of hours

 

Have fun!


The Challengers


~ Mary Ellen Dorey Cassman, Plano, TX~
www.doreyaromatherapy.com
 Vision: “Whisper” I wanted a fresh, warm and inviting scent, with a light citrus note of bergamot and earthiness to beckon the sniffer and have them linger.  The soft florals of lavender absolute, rose and jasmine are complemented by the spiciness of cinnamon leaf. As the base notes emerge, patchouli and sandalwood anchor and solidify the blend with a touch of the vanilla echoing the softness of the lavender, rose and jasmine. This is a toney fragrance for a woman who likes her elegance understated. 

Notes: Vanilla, Patchouli, Sandalwood, Jasmine, Rose, Lavender, Cinnamon, Bergamot

Bio: I am a Clinical Aromatherapist and Natural Perfumer.  I am attracted to scent and find it deeply satisfying on a physical, emotional and spiritual level.  As a reflexologist, I work daily with blends I create for my clients.  Natural Perfumery is the fun part of my world where I play with structured abandon!  I get deep satisfaction from creating perfumes.

Review:  This fragrance is very light and delicate, as the name “Whisper” implies. It evokes memories of soft summer night standing out in my front yard, watering my lovely flowers. It reminds me of the crescent moon and its pale light barely making it to earth but there nonetheless. 

 

 

 


 

~Jane Cate, Menlo Park, CA, USA~

 
Vision: The vision of my perfume, GARDEN OF VERSES, is based on the children’s book, “A Children’s Garden of Verses” by Robert Louis Stevenson.  I loved that book and it has travels with me through all facets of my life, to settle in a place of honor on my book shelf in California.   My mother used to read poetry from that special book to my sister and me, while sitting in our little English Garden at our home in Yonkers, New York.  My favorites were two poems “The Swing” and “Windy Nights”.  I would ask her to read those two poems repeatedly, and to this day, I remember every verse and line for both!

Notes: “GARDEN OF VERSES” Vanilla, Patchouli (Iron free), English Lavender Absolute, Jasmine Sambac, Rose Damascena, Tuberose, Bulgarian Rose, Rosewood, Bergamot, and Heliotrope blended in Bergamot Denatured Alcohol (organic and my own blend)

Bio:  A Wing & A Prayer Perfumes is dedicated to the art of creating natural fragrances using only pure organic materials. The motto for AWAAPP is “define yourself naturally by wearing A Wing & A Prayer Perfumes”, I believe in this and all of my perfumes stay true to this credo! Wearing a fragrance is a means of self-expression and I wanted to convey this in each fragrance I create, including GARDEN OF VERSES Perfume.  Even though I have been blending natural perfumes for 17 years, I am still discovering new natural ingredients and new methods in the creation of new fragrances.  Learning is an essential in the art of perfumery.

Review: Like a stroll through an English Country Garden, “Garden of Verses” reminds me of warm summer days, gentle breezes, and bright blue skies. It is a wonderful replica of something that can be found in real life. Very enjoyable to sniff and to wear.

 

 

 


~Suzy Larsen, Kelowna, BC~

 

Vision:  While listening to the soundtrack of the 1973 movie, The Sting, I was drawn into an unusually slow rag-time instrumental that was equally melancholic and euphorically uplifting.  Intrigued by this paradox in the tune “Solace”, I looked up the definition of the word and found that it is something that gives comfort, consolation or relief—if a song can successfully comfort in sadness but also aim toward hope then that’s what I wanted My Front Yard perfume “piece” to convey as well.  Although I have but three lavender bushes in my front yard, the herb grows plentifully in the Okanagan so I purchased local lavender essential oil and gave it a crowning place in Solace using more than 25% in the perfume concentrate.  Lavender triggers alpha waves in the brain and induces relaxation (a state most important in allowing ourselves to be nurtured and consoled); rose evokes nostalgia (comforting in times of grief); and jasmine stimulates beta waves (important for focus and being still in the moment). This trilogy in Solace is supported by bit players that enhance a feeling of well-being during times of grief or distress.

Notes:  Vanilla SCO2 extract, Labdanum, Patchouli, Peru Balsam, Rose absolute, Jasmine absolute, Lavender absolute, Lavender, Cedarwood Leaf, Raspberry Leaf, Black Spruce, Spearmint and Rose Hydrosol in Organic Cane Alcohol.

Bio:  My journey into the enchanted world of scent began on the family ranch in Southern Alberta as I encountered many awe-inspiring smells from livestock, barns, fields, gardens and my favorites: the dust from the Quonsets where freshly unloaded grain was stored and the dust from the fields where freshly cut hay lay.  In my teenage years my mother and aunt treated me to lovely perfumes that to this day bring back wonderful memories.  Perhaps these events ultimately led to my understanding that scent is powerful and can anchor us to the moment, engage us in life and help us live fully in it.  Becoming an Aromatherapist and Natural perfumer was the next logical step in my path to uncovering the exceptional healing capacity of the oils as well as tuning into their unsurpassed aesthetic beauty.

Review:  “Solace” is warm and enticing. It draws the sniffer in to discover how it was all pulled together. The light touch of spearmint is well-placed and brings some relief to the floral aspects of the scent. I felt very balanced immediately on smelling this fragrance.

The Samples

The Prize

 

A beautiful atomizer of Coeur d'Esprit Natural Perfume "Inspired", surrounded by an elegant gold sleeve, suitable for evening wear; and perfect to carry with you.

Inspired Notes include: Bergamot, Orange Blossom absolute, Orange Blossom Water absolute, High Altitude Lavender, Pink Lotus absolute, Mimosa absolute, Black Currant Bud absolute, Sandalwood, Oud, Vanilla, Myrrh, Beeswax, and Labdanum.

This perfume begins with a lively citrus opening, which quickly evolves into a garden of surprizes. It is deeply floral and pulls you in to discover the little nuances and ‘scent-bites’ it is offering. ‘Inspired’ has a liquid hypnotic quality that immediately relaxes and rejuvenates the wearer. The promise is that you’ll keep going back for another sniff.

Glam Bag Giveaway
 

There are two Glam Bags giveaways waiting for the first and second person who comments on the blog post and includes the words: ‘I would like to join in the Glam Bag offer’. Contact me privately though my face book page and I’ll connect back to you for your mailing address. There are two organza bags of the five lovely 1 ml perfume samples I’ve reviewed in this post. Let your friends know to to read and make their comments, too.There are two Glam Bags giveaways waiting for the first and second person who comments on the blog post and includes the words: ‘I would like to join in the Glam Bag offer’. Contact me privately though my face book page and I’ll connect back to you for your mailing address. There are two organza bags of the five lovely 1 ml perfume samples I’ve reviewed in this post. Let your friends know to to read and make their comments, too.There are two Glam Bags giveaways waiting for the first and second person who comments on the blog post and includes the words: ‘I would like to join in the Glam Bag offer’. Contact me privately though my face book page and I’ll connect back to you for your mailing address. There are two organza bags of the five lovely 1 ml perfume samples I’ve reviewed in this post. Let your friends know to to read and make their comments, too.There are two Glam Bags giveaways waiting for the first and second person who comments on the blog post and includes the words: ‘I would like to join in the Glam Bag offer’. Contact me privately though my face book page and I’ll connect back to you for your mailing address. There are two organza bags of the five lovely 1 ml perfume samples I’ve reviewed in this post. Let your friends know to to read and make their comments, too.There are two ‘Glam Bag Giveaways’ to be won by a lucky commenter on this challenge. Please include the words, ‘I would like to join the ‘Glam Bag Giveaway’ in your comment along with anything else you’d like to say about the challenge. Let your friends know to read my face book post and make their comments there, too. If this is not possible, head on over to my perfume blog and do it there. http://coeurdespritnaturalperfume.blogspot.ca/


Participants in the challenge are not included in this giveaway.


Contact me privately though my face book page and I’ll connect back to you for your mailing address. There are two organza bags of the five lovely 1 ml perfume samples I’ve reviewed in this post. Let your friends know to to read and make their comments, too.The winners can contact me privately through my face book page and we’ll connect so I can get your mailing addresses. The gift consists of a gold organza pouch with the three .5 ml to 1 ml perfumes I’ve reviewed so you can experience all of the entries, as I did.


The Results Are In

The Grand Prize Winner is

 
Suzy Larsen

from Kelowna, BC, Canada, for her entry called “Solace”

As soon as I opened the bottle, I was over the moon. This fragrance is so close to what I experience when I leave or return to my home over the summer months. This “My Front Yard” perfume design captured the warm balsamic and deeply floral notes in my personal front yard.


The Seal

Thanks so much to Mary Ellen Dorey Cassman and Jane Cate for joining in the fun. Your perfumes are all wonderful and you should feel very proud of your work and your resulting new scents. I appreciated each of your designs and it was a pleasure to play with you all again.

Please know that, before I do anything else, I do the sniff test and make my notes. I dab some on me and on a scent strip and sniff every half hour until it is gone. Then I write the evaluation. Finally, I compile this file with your vision, notes, bio, and my review.


I hope you’ll be back next year as I love doing this for you.


Love Lyn